Stratford Canal, Wilmcote to Grand Union Canal, Saltisford Arm, Warwick

The Southern Stratford Canal (the 25½ miles of it) is pretty – but hard work…

After the 16 locks climb up from Bancroft Basin the crew felt a touch exhausted… There was relief on the last three locks when the crew ahead pulled in for a lunch break and the middle-aged son, escorting his 80-something parents on a trip from the Coventry Canal to Stratford and back, loaned a hand.

There was an overnight stop at Wilmcote,

but there were no plans to visit Mary Arden’s house since it’s now designated an education centre for primary aged children ).

Cleddau continued next day to Wootton Wawen.

In its mid-section the Southern Stratford Canal becomes aqueduct country. First there’s the long Edstone Aqueduct, for its history and dimensions see here:  . The towpath at the southern end is undergoing a serious refurbishment.

to Wootton Wawen, passing the fairly new Hill Farm Marina.

The second aqueduct crosses above a fast road to arrive at the Anglo-Welsh hire boat basin.

After manoeuvring into position, the diesel tank was topped up and Cleddau was moored up nearby. During the afternoon the Anglo-Welsh  boats were being serviced, refuelled and moved about.

The Wootton Wawen fleet numbers 23 now, having increased from 17 following the Tardebigge hire base’s closure. (When the Captain climbed the steps to the office to pay for the fuel the array of damp soft furnishings drying in the office was explained as resulting from the 12 berth hire boat’s sinking at Harvington Lock – mentioned here:  )

A visit to the nearby Yew Tree Farm Courtyard Shopping Village proved impossible to resist,

for a tasty light lunch

 and a good mooch around the Sims Vintage Antiques Centre,

the Warwickshire Artisans’ Gallery and Giftivity, an emporium already geared up for Fall and the Halloween season…

Onward next day, more locks, (the lock cottage at Preston Bagot Lock looking sadder these days)

and on to Bucket Lock

and aqueduct number 3,

the short Yarningale Aqueduct that sits just beyond the lock.

The canal is gliding through a rural landscape: could this be Archers country, where a rural barn building project is under way…?

It was a relief to meet friendly faces at Lowsonford Top Lock, two men, boaters on their way to the pub, keen to help shift a heavy bottom gate and to cross a top gate to wind the offside paddle. Much appreciated!

It’s other worlde territory here. Beautiful chestnut horses and their riders were seen taking refreshment in the pub garden (from Ambridge’s Stables perhaps??)

while just along the canal the pastiche garden structures of Lowsonford Halt inevitably raise a smile.

The Captain had worked hard to plan a mooring for a dinner – between them the Cleddau crew and the former Tentatrice crew had two birthdays within five days of each other to be marked and celebrated…

Progress was very slow the next day in wet weather. A hire boat ahead had a novice crew and inadequate maps. Enchanted by videos of “those two actors – if they can do it, we can do it,” (it was the Timothy West & Prunella Scales effect again) two Norwegian* couples had flown in to Heathrow from Oslo and reached Wootton Wawen hire base by National Express Coach. Nb Poppy creeping under the M40.

“Should we go left or right at the top?” they asked. They seemed to want to go to Birmingham but also be craving pretty villages and evening meals in country pubs.

As the boats climbed there were route discussions and map donations… When Poppy, the hire boat, pulled in for lunch and a route conflab, Cleddau pressed on 

– and duly bore right at Kingswood Junction to join the Grand Union Canal, heading for Warwick. 

Phew, several lock-free miles on a broad canal and a pleasant overnight mooring on the Rowington Embankment.

While preparing for departure the following day what boat should cruise by but Poppy and the Norwegians…  Onwards, towards Warwick, through Shrewley Tunnel.

Would the Poppy crew be turning round where the Captain had advised or continuing onwards – and therefore downwards?

The boat ahead was not turned at the winding (turning) hole

– and so Cleddau and Poppy arrived at the top of the Hatton Flight  where the only way ahead was to go down, down 21 broad locks. Bewilderment spread across the Norwegians’ faces. These locks looked nothing like the locks on the Stratford Canal. The paddle gear here is wound at the tall white pillars at each end of the locks.

“Do you have any more of these aboard?”, Boatwif asked, brandishing her windlass. In due course each crew member was equipped and broad lock lessons could begin.

The café near Top Lock attracts a lot of gongoozlers.

While winding and pushing there was a barrage of standard questions: “Why is it always the women who do the hard work?” (Not true) “You must have great muscles in your arms…” (Would that were the case!) A keen photographer followed the boats’ progress down several locks, the man alternating between lending a hand on the windlass and focusing his powerful lens on the action…

Within a few locks a rhythm had developed, one Cleddau and one Poppy crew member setting each new lock ahead. For a few brief locks in the middle upcoming boats made life easier for the lock crews though more challenging for those on the helm having to steer across a crowded pound.

Occasionally a lock keeper would appear – and then continue to support ascending rather than descending boats.

There were work parties cutting foliage back in a former narrow lock 

and along the towpath.

Within about three hours, with no lunch break, Hatton Bottom Lock had been reached.

Cleddau crept into the Saltisford Arm for two nights R&R,

while the Norwegians* bore left on the main line towards the Cape of Good Hope pub  and the two Cape Locks below.

For the next leg some re-planning was needed – but first there was a spot of Warwick sight-seeing to do…

*The Norwegians included one Swede – and in a chance conversation it  transpired that  54 years ago, in 1970, he and the Captain were at RAF Leeming at the same time, the Captain doing flying training on the Jet Provost,

Tutt, the Swede on a visit from the Royal Swedish Air Force Academy, the visitors flying SAAB 105 trainer aircraft. 

Later Tutt flew with the Scandinavian Air Services…

Wilmcote to Warwick: 17 miles, 39 locks, 0 swing bridges, 1 tunnel passage

2024 Totals: 462 miles, 14 tunnel passages, 271 locks, 31 swing bridges

 *2024 Monkton Moments*(Monkton Moment*- a reference to / recognition of Cleddau’s Pembrokeshire connections) – now 24 (a towpath walker who knew Milford Haven)

Tudor Rose enquiries: 2

Footballs floating in the cut: 10

Supermarket trolleys visible in the cut: 4

Rescued: 1 garden gnome

Car in the river – 1

Brides – 2